You can drive up to the park and peer over the rim or even hike down a few thousand feet. You can hire a plane or a helicopter. You can float down the Colorado River in a boat.

But I’m now absolutely certain there’s no better way to meet it and see it than by crawling through it on your hands and bloody knees.

Very nice to meet you, backcountry Grand Canyon. You’re intimidating as hell, but yet still so welcoming. I should be afraid but I’m not.

Under the rim I feel like I’m underwater, looking up at the sky like it’s the water’s surface, this world is so strange and… practically mythical. Above the rim, surrounded by cars and tourists, well, I’m ready already to dive back in!